From the Jan-Feb 98 North American Carp Angler

Lift Float Jig Stalking by John McKean

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North American Carp Angler

Well, '97 has been a really good year so far for one who specializes in jig fishing for carp. A nagging problem has been buggin' me until recently, though'. Most times my slip float techniques, as discussed previously, performed quite well; other times a standard bottom jumping retrieve utilizing only a directly tied jig proved superior. My dilemma: why did I have to remove my carefully conceived float riggings every now and then for best results? Or would my well refined standard jigging methods from years past actually prove superior? (I hoped not, because the floats and the sensitivity they offered are, indeed, fascinating to work with!) As usual, carp gave me the answer.

I've been fortunate to be at many various locales where I could actually observe them approach and take my jigs. Sometimes I'd be stalking fish, and purposely, carefully place my artificial into their line of sight. Other times the golden predators were the stalkers, attacking from hidden areas among weeds, rocks, stickups, or even totally unseen in cloudy, distant waters. From their reaction to a dropping jig, normal bottom hopping only proved superior to a slip-float technique because the former always had bottom contact and the latter sometimes did not. That is, I've concluded a jig MUST HIT BOTTOM for maximum effectiveness.

Except for the minor inconvenience of extra rigging, slip-float jigging has every other advantage over conventional bottom hopping: better control, much more casting range, vastly superior bite detection (though' with serious qualifications-more to follow), and pinpoint placement. So, to yield the ultimate in float jigging I simply make sure to always secure my stop know just a tiny bit OVER DEPTH.

To this end it's rather amazing to witness the scaly critters' reaction to a slow dropping fig: when one is sighted I carefully manipulate a float within two or three feet of my prey before spilling slack line, he'll then sometimes follow the dropping lure downward if he doesn't take immediately, but when the leadhead conks bottom you can almost see "hairs standing up on his head!" Ever so slight vibrations created by the touchdown has a phenomenal triggering effect for the take. Even when I miss the sight zone of a carp, or he disdainfully chooses to ignore my meticulously tied creation, reaction to the bottom tick is dramatic-he'll stop whatever he's doing to swim over for an immediate nose down investigation! I've even seen a few confused fish literally turning their heads left then right or swimming in circles when they have trouble locating the tasty little intruder responsible for the gentle "thunk" (much to my chagrin!).

While sight and smell are undoubtedly important to carp fishing, I'm now a huge believer in sound as a vital attractant as well. While stalking carp in the shallows another glaring truth has emerged-more often than not even a sensitive, superbly balanced flat won't indicate the take. I've watched time and again as a carp gently slurped my jig off the bottom and would just sit there holding on while the ole float bobbed completely undisturbed topside. Not a flinch or a nod beyond what waves and wind supplied; if I wasn't watching the hit unfold I'd be completely unaware. I'm sure this happens also with a standard jigging approach, probably more often than we realize, only a normal jump retrieve automatically (and accidentally, most of the time) sets the hook.

To compensate for my newfound discoveries, I started to experience greater success when I began using the float to work my jig rather than as a bite indicator-whether I spot the fish or not. Utilizing a large stick type loaded (weighted) float such as the #3 and #4 Jan Porter models (available from Nigel Griffin at Eurotackle) I watch carefully, almost hypnotically, as the delicate peacock quill submerges slightly and waggles gently while line pours though its lower ring, then bobs straight back up an inch or two when my jig bottoms. The lift on the float cautions me to immediately jump the jig to a new position, or AT MOST, to wait for a 2 count before moving it.

Yes, sometimes the float flinches or ducks under ands away on a serious take, but I'm still surprised how many times a carp is "unexpectedly" hooked when twitching the rod directly after the float's initial lift. All I really need to know by the float's protrusion skyward is that it's tie to jerk gently-mostly as the retrieve, but sometimes, unknowingly, to set a hook! In the "old days" I had to squint and try to detect when my ultra-thin line would go slack, indicating jig bottoming and to then immediately institute my subsequent jump; now the easy to see float makes this task much surer and far more direct. Plus, as a bonus, sometimes the float still does provide the visual thrill of a hearty strike!

Some may question the oversized float mentioned above, in light of the fact that ideal dropping speed (very slow) is achieved with a tiny 1/32 oz. jig (20 years' intense experience with ultralight jigging has absolutely convinced me!). But the extra float length is essential to clearly demonstrate its lift. At a distance this old man may not see a mere 1/2 inch rise, but even with wind and waves I can see the float nod upwards 2 or 3 inches. There's just no telling how many carp are missed if this "window of opportunity" passes by! Now, to be sure, Mr. Carp is a bit better about his taste testing than, say, panfish or bass. Our old pal will usually mouth the jig, especially if tipped with a kernel of corn, for several seconds. For this reason I've often felt that ultralight jigs were made for carp! Also the laze old bugger sometimes ambles over in a rather aloof manner-no hurry-to pick up a jig.

So I sometimes pause the jig on bottom for a brief period before jumping it. Still, never prolong this rest-it's been proven to me that a better bet is to ALWAYS ASSUME the float's pop up indicates your bait "dwells in the mouth of fishes!" Every time I gently snatch the lure upward I'm really "setting the hook." Rigging consists of one of my homemade 1/32 oz. jigs, usually in a chartreuse and gray craft hair/chenille pattern, a small sliding bead, a running bead link (Eurotackle) snapped to the float, another bead, and up line, a stop knot tied with a uniknot using old 12# test casting line. The jig, float, and beads all slide to the end of your line for very easy and accurate casting. This rig can actually be chucked into a small distant pothole in a weedbed with, of course, the jig dropping straight down into the small clearing without hanging. (By the way, this directly vertical drop also prevents line from prematurely touching a carp-as often does an angled line-to spook him.) The forward bead prevents the running link form sticking on the jig eye, while the running bead link itself has a very substantial opening for line to glide through.

It is absolutely essential that the lightweight jig be given almost no resistance to be permitted an instant descent into the depths. Surprisingly, if anything is omitted form this et-up, it's the stop know; remember, it's set over depth, anyway, and doesn't really function to anchor the float-besides, a hard strike is often easily detected without it. This float set up is dynamite when stalking carp in clear shallows-just overcast and stealthily retrieve to head level before feeding slack line to drop down the payload. Or you can cover water and reach unseen carp by jigging each float lift and assuming a carp has taken every time your lure seemingly hits bottom: you'll be amazed how often you're right as water boils to your twitch!!!

John McKean, PA

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