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From what I understand this fly is credited to a 4 or 5 year old who had been fishing with Ian James.

Hook: 3399 sizes 2-6

Tail: White rabbit

Body: Dubbed white rabbit

Eyes: A pair of stainless steel beadchain

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Been on a bead eye campaign lately since I had great success with this pattern last year. I don't consider myself a good tier, but the fish don't seem to mind my rough work for rough fish. :rolleyes:


Edited by Clay34
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Guest TreeBass
Been on a bead eye campaign lately since I had great success with this pattern last year. I don't consider myself a good tier, but the fish don't seem to mind my rough work for rough fish. :yourock:

those look great! Who wouuld have thought I'd be herre looking for carp flies :rolleyes:

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those look great! Who wouuld have thought I'd be herre looking for carp flies :rolleyes:

Nice to see you here. I see that you have been a member for a while but just don't post much. We'll have to change that. Looking forward to some pictures from the lake system in Iraq, courtesy of Sadam with some carp. By the way those are some of the flies that you will have in your hands soon. They will catch fish.


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Nice! What size hook do you like to tie those on, Rick?

Mostly tie those in 8s, but 6 to 12 is fine. Today built some buggers on a bloody bugger variation. Mostly because I didn't have the materials that I needed to make exactly what I wanted, but they will catch fish.

Again, I'm a hacker, I have been tying about a year and I make some things that catch fish, but many people tie much prettier than I. Check out 9Wt's web site for someone that know what the heck he is doing. He has a nice blog and some very nice patterns indeed: http://www.roughfisher.com/ I have to steal, I mean borrow some of those patterns from him.


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Your flies look absolutely fine! There are a good number of us that do NOT tie flies to put them into a frame...we CATCH FISH with them! I've been tying for maybe a little over 2 years, and I can laugh at the ugly "things" I first tied, and even THEY caught fish! I remember some abominations of materials bound down with way too much wire... :rolleyes:

Making them more perfect or pretty is more for us than the fish, I suppose.

I have the utmost respect for guys that can tie those fancy, colorful Atlantic Salmon flies. Maybe someday I'll give that a shot. For now, I wanna catch some fish! ;o)

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nice ties rick. they should work perfectly for roughfish.

Thanks man but have been spending a lot of time on your web site lately drooling over those fantastic patterns. Since you are too modest, this site has some wonderful patterns that I am going to steal for my own use: http://www.roughfisher.com/search/label/Fly%20Patterns Thanks for the nice resource.

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I see some great looking patterns that, because of their inclusion in the forum, are worthwhile flies. I do wish that each fly had a "recipe" of materials, hook sizes, etc. for reference.

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Love the Arnj Crush! Will defenitely try those this year.

McTage's Primordial-Crust

This is something of a complicated tie as Carp-flies go. Certainly the most complicated I use. As shown it is also an extremely heavily weighted fly for fishing in rivers and deep feeding fish in clear stillwaters. Obviously the weight can be adjusted to taste.

Thread: 140 Ultra-Thread, black

Hook: Mustad 3906 Size 4 or Tiemco 760SP size 4 (These are short shank, wide gape, heavy gauge wet fly hooks)

Eyes: Shown with 5/32 Black Dazzle eyes.

Weight: 15 wraps of .025" lead

Tail / Belly: Rubber Buggy Nymph Legs, 2 orange 4 brown (Belly is on the top of the hook for this fly)

Body: Swisher's Rub a Dub, Orange.

Wing: Brown zonker strip (On the hook side for this fly)


  1. Tie in the Dazzle eyes well forward on the top of the hook.
  2. Add lead wraps on the hook shank between the hook-point and behind the Dazzle eyes.
  3. The rubber legs will be used both to create a splayed tail and the belly of the fly. Cut the rubber legs about 3" long. Tie them in on the top of the hook shank such that half hang of the length hangs forward and half hangs aft.
  4. The portion of the legs hanging forward is now in the way. Fold it back and overwrap it a couple of times. There will now be 12 rubber strands hanging backwards.
  5. Create a dubbing loop and fill about 3-4" of the loop with Swishers Rub a Dub. Do not over-fill the dubbing loop or the fly will come out extremely bulky.
  6. Spin the loop to create a bushy rope of fine rubber sili legs and dubbing.
  7. Wind the spun dubbing loop forward to the dazzle eyes and tie off. Before each wind brush back the material from the previous wind so that it is not over-wound. Tie in behind the Dazzle Eyes.
  8. Pick out any of the fine black rubber strands from the rub-a-dub that have been doubled over in the dubbing loop or winding process.
  9. Using your hands or a dubbing brush, part the dubing on the top of the hook shank and brush to the either side.
  10. Grab the 6 sili-leg segments that were previously folded back and stretch them forward through the dubbinp part and over the valley in the Dazzle eyes. Tie in in front of the eyes.
  11. Flip the fly.
  12. Create a part in the dubbing on the hook-side and brush to the sides.
  13. This is difficult to describe, but is the easiest way to add rabbit to any upside-down fly. Peirce a rabbit strip about 1/8" from its end with the hook. Pull the rabbit strip forward down the part in the dubbing until the section that has been peirced butts up against the dubbing at the hook bend. Deep some forward tension and tie in the rabbit strip at the hook eye. The strip will be attached by the hook in the back and with thread by the eye. The furr should lie back towards the back of the fly.
  14. The dubbing will now be sticking out to the sides sandwiched between the rubber legs on the top and the rabbit strip on the bottom. The end effect is a fly that has something of a flattened profile.
  15. The original idea was for the fly to fall extremely hook-up. The eyes are on top, the bottom is both more bouyant and has more drag than the top. Oddly enough though these effects combined with the flattened profile creates an instability that makes the fly flitter side to side a little like a spoon fly. The profile makes the fly want to tip from side a little, the bouyancy and weight balance want to return it to hook up. It makes for a cool looking drop.
  16. Cut the rabbit strip at the front and finish the fly.




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