KingCarp
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Posts posted by KingCarp
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"f/8 and be there", meaning that being "on the scene" is more important than worrying about technical details"
Bang on!!!
f this and . that..... lol yes it all has its importance.
Sorry I already explained how these remarks are VERY confusing for others,..please again, standard tip is for COMPACT, I add comments for DSLR. My pictures more than proved my point.
F8,0 IS A STANDARD SETTING FOR DSLR
F5,6 is enough for most compacts,and MAN WITH FISH, only change to highest F value for landscape photo. -
'Crossbreed DSLR' is what the producer would like you to think, your camera is a higher end COMPACT no comparison with a DSLR. So to stay within average [limited] compact tips;
If possible use RAW option.
Set for standard A mode, but when the standard light range is not enough, set for M mode
Play ISO setting, the higher ISO the more shutterspeed but also more grainy! You have to test for your camera what is max.
Take 4-5 second shots or longer, this compensates for the loss of light.
There is no zoom option in Macro So tripod essential!! There are special tripods with horiziontal zoom option.
A to get to exact depth range, remember no zoom so only inches play.
B to make it possible 4-5 seconds open shutter are neccesary [ps only manual mode M]
C you need to set shutter timer too, each touch to camera will distort, remote is possible too.
This you have to practice first before I'm able to help more.
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Macro Photography Basics.
Carpoholic especially for you a video tutorial, I'm afraid as compacts go that is the limitation too as you will not have nearly as many setting options as a DSLR will have.
The most important pointers are stated at the end and I totally agree; always use a tripod and shutter timer mode or a real remote to avoid movements
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Photoguys,..hahaha nice touch Phone!
I found this four part video tutorial, I have zero experience with cellphone photography.
I did notice however that once you see the video, you should better understand the tips I already gave...they seem to be simular.
I will only post part I, follow the YouTube link for part 2, 3 and 4
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This already is really basic stuff Carpoholic, the only confusion is because of Savay's explanations.
I do give the tips ; for novices - based on compacts as I assume that group will mostly have compacts.
For the ones that have a reflex and don't use it properly, they too should be able to understand this, and they shopuld benefit as well.
From the interaction between Savay and myself it should make things more clear to you.
For you as a novice I urge you to do just as explained. As explained those settings will do for; man and carp / landscape/portrait. When you have done that and wonder what to do in a special event, please do ask.
The only remark that remains from your question; Macro...I will look for a basic video tutorial and come back to you.
Please keep communicating, I need your feedback!
And there are few silly questions, don't be ashamed! [and if so, ask me by PM or email]
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I'll do you one better.
Again Piet, this 35 Lb he took early in the morning, the lucky sod had the 34 Lb after lunch.
The picture is a bit dark, on purpose I did not try the enhance it, you see what would happen with your suggested f6,3 to f7,1 for compacts? It would be too dark and or blurred because of the lack of shutterspeed, and I'm pretty sure most novices would not notice until after!
Look at the EXIF data,..this shot was even taken at f2,8 same compact!
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A picture tells a thousand words!
Here's a photo of a guest, with a nice 34 LB carp. Not too bad a picture too, you agree?
Please check the EXIF file data I copied form Photoshop!
f5,6 just as I predicted.And plenty of 'depth of field' A Pentax Optio which is a COMPACT.
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Hi Savay, thanks for your input. Sorry when things get confusing, but as you know English is NOT my native tongue, but...
f2.8 is an incredibly 'shallow' depth of field. At the range that shot was taken a depth of field of f2.8 would be in the order of a few inches (which clearly is not the case in the image).You say that Jerome's picture was not taken at f2.8 correct?
In that case you get confused, because the EXIF file clearly shows f2.8 !
-Its the 'proof' that novices usually leave camera setting in AUTO or P mode
-It proves just my point that a COMPACT camera will never have a really SHALLOW depth of view, because of the very small chip!
I did not add a YouTube clip, nor the link you just posted,DEPTH OF VIEW TUTORIAL,because that outcome demonstrates clearly the 'shallow depth of view' possible with a Digital SLR, which is very different and highly confusing for our novices right now.
We both intent to offer them the option to take A picture with greater depth of field, I know for a compact f5,6 would do that. NOT so for a DSLR I totally agree, but have stated above clearly a f8.0 for DSLR.
I do agree you could set the compact at f6,3 or f7,1..but those are [for compacts] its maximum too...only problem, for the novice again, he will use 'my settings' mostly all the time too and might forget to see a 'low light warning'
As man-fish photo will always be shot at a 3-5 ft range the suggested f5,6 will do that plus reserves a bit more 'low light' options without changing the settings.
Do appreciate your input though, because these discussions should be telling for our novices, agree?
thanks BOB
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Monitor Calibration: Who needs it?
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Some basic cloning tool tips;
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Photoshop Color Settings tutorial
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A few basic tricks to improve your pictures;
The red-eye removal tutorial
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Camera ISO settings tutorial
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However very few Digital SLR's offer ISO settings below 200 (or actually need to compared to film).
Of course these are general rules, but if possible in very sunny conditions an ISO 50-100 will give you much better contrast. My Canon G6 has it [ a compact even!] so does my Canon 5D.
I think Savay means f6.3 to f7.1 for compacts? Not neccesarily, because the much smaller camera chips in compacts already give much more depth of field. Cannot hurt either, but that's why I adviced the Aperture Priority Mode in the first place. There is a big difference between DSLR and Compact regarding depth of field. For DSLR I advise f8.0 or higher. [higher means smaller aperture!]
Look at Jerome's picture in the other Advanced Photography topic, it was probably shot in P or Auto
According to the EXIF file [the settings of your camera will appear on your computer] that photo was taken with f2.8 and isn't too shallow depth of field.That was a Compact.
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Aperture Priority Mode tutorial
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RAW vs Jpg tutorial
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Whitebalance; when you set your camera for RAW you can simply use AWB or Automatic White Balance, because its easy to correct on your computer.
A tutorial;
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I'll do that and thanks for the help Willem!
Due to the time difference I wasn't able to help, just woke up! The Advanced Photography topic kept me up until 03.30.
Willem already explained nicely Carpaholic, but here you can find more.
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I'm starting this separate topic, because most will otherwise quickly loose track of the basics.
First I think its better I show you how to make better use of your camera, the problem pictures I will take care off.
For questions about the settings its better to do that here.
Please do not quote to much, it will make it hard for others to keep track. Thanks.
Camera settings for self-portrait with fish.
I bet that 80% of you guys, whether you own a compact or a reflex camera only use the AUTO setting, unfortunately.
I would like to offer you a few changes in your settings that will dramatically improve your ability to make a better photo;
I advise you to change the settings as advised below for self-portrait with fish and do not change! These settings will also do for landscape pictures.
A- Set your camera to the A for Aperture preference mode. [sometimes called AV]
B- Set the aperture value- the F value at a minimum of f5,6 or for reflex camera’s f8,0
C- Choose highest possible resolution, preferable RAW or highest jpg mode.
D- Set fixed Red-Eye correction.
ISO value compensates for dark or sunny conditions; AWB means it fixes it automatically,
When its very sunny ISO 50 or 100 will do best.
In low light setting -cloudy day ISO 400-800 will do much better.
For flash, set camera at lowest ISO, 50 better than 100
Test your flash at home, each camera has 'flash compensation', try it!
Do not take flash pictures head on, better at an angle to prevent too much 'flashburn'
Better to have background cover instead of water and sky, why you ask?
Camera will measure an average, as water and sky cover biggest part of the picture this will result in you and the fish being too dark.
You can change to 'spotmetering', now the camera will focus on the center of the picture.
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I got a macypoo Joel. An older PowerBook g4, and that would be awesome!
As an avid Mac user I'm sorry to have to tell you Photoshop CS5 isn't going to run on your PowerBook, maybe an older version CS3 might work reasonably. Also depending on how much RAM you have.
King,I actually think that the second picture, the adobe color profile added is the nicest IMO, how do you add a color profile? I'm not very familiar with photo editing but I can try and keep up
Read what I mentioned about a calibrated monitor.
Simply said, when you go to a shop where they sell TV's, you can see that there is no monitor with the same colors. So it is possible that for your monitor picture 2 looks best.
That also is the biggest problem for uncalibrated monitors, because when you sent me that picture to me its colors are not correct at all!
Setting up Photoshop, the first thing you should do is choose the Color Settings in the Edit menu.
You can also open the picture in Mac's Preview and than under EXTRA's choose- ASSIGN PROFILE. Maybe for the time being you're better off without Photoshop because your PowerBook will have a hard time with it.
As stated before in most cases just adding the color profile makes for a lot more vivid colors and a much wider range.
But you should get some more basic knowledge before you do too much...let's go step by step.
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Thanks Joel, that was the general idea!
Maybe a bit too advanced for most, for that reason I say...you think I can improve your picture, sent it to me!
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I feel no matter what your shooting it should be in RAW, This will give the editor more to play with and you a full image, its a larger file but worth it at the end of the day,
Very true, RAW is the deal,..even when you f&%k up your photo, later you can easily change Aperture and Whitebalance
The tips probably go a bit too fast for most now. That's why I called it Advanced Phtography
As I stated at the start I only got a 150Kb file to work with.
When you shoot in RAW, the original RAW file always remains , like the old negative/slide so to speak. You just choose to make a jpg or tiff. The RAW file you keep, just in case as the slide/negative
The better quality camera's offer you the option to shoot a RAW and a Jpg at the same time.
The jpg you guys see, is what your camera chose to do with the internal 'raw' file, contrast, color, sharpen. In RAW you have to do that yourself.
An example'
I found a bad RAW photo;
First I attach a color profile- Adobe RGB1998;
Now I correct Aperture and Whitebalance;
And finally a few small corrections in Shadows;
Of course a bad photo will never become a great photo, but look at the difference.
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I would have fixed the eye, as you did and then removed the "hardware" at the tale by cloning. I would have done nothing else as his natural skin tones appear (to my eye) a bit too red. Editing is always, like beauty, in the eye of the beholder.
Here is my version.
The biggest problem what people forget is that most don't have a color management system. Let me guess, your monitor isn't calibrated?
Photo's straight from the camera usually have an sRGB color profile, which is a limited color range.
Only thing I did was;
A- attach a Adobe RGB1998 color profile [much bigger color range.
B- removed red eye
C- touched up the flesh wound and scratches at the head.
Did not change anything...sure could have removed the headlight.
Another thing, when you catch a 44lb carp and make 25 or so pictures, how do you think your face would look like?
And I do have a color management system, top monitor at full HD resolution, calibrated monitor.
PS 'cloning tool' is standard in Photoshop
Advanced Photography
in Pictures, Stories & Video
Posted
Nice pictures Frog, I can see you don't need much help either.
I can see from the type of pictures, that where you shoot filters are highly beneficial, the tropical, the ocean.
My needs are covered with a pretty good circular polafilter.
For this photo I didn't use that filter, but should have done. DSLR