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Savayman

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Posts posted by Savayman

  1. I usually use in line leads but when i use safety clips i use resistance tackle ones, i never have the lead come off unless it breaks which isnt good for fishing snags but if you dont want to lose leads i would go with those.

    Kinda defeats the need or purpose of a clip...???

  2. It was really exciting to be given the opportunity by Pete Aarestad, Director of Inland Fisheries, to join DEEP Commissioner Daniel Esty and other dignitaries in showcasing the resources of the Connecticut River earlier this week. Along with fellow anglers Fran Slasinski, Nigel Barrow, Justin Solak, Mike Hudak (the current CT record holder), Bryan Tuller, Eric Gilbert and CT Outfitters owner Gary

    Brummett we not only managed to catch a few for the camera but also helped raise peoples awareness of carp as a truly worthwhile sport fish not only in New England but right across North America.

    post-479-0-99474600-1349381596.jpg

    In the photo Iain Sorrell, holding a 21.12lb carp, is joined by: From left to right, State Representative Matthew Lesser, State Senator Paul Doyle, Commissioner Daniel C. Esty and City of Middletown Mayor Daniel Drew.

  3. Had an idea, don't know if it is already used or disproven, but here is kind of the set up:

    post-7273-0-25933600-1349056964.jpg

    But, using a feeder type style lead, and a blow-back rig. Adjust the hooklength to a little longer than the weight. Easier to put the hook into the pack bait and let your hair rig hang out a little.

    I'm thinking it might could. My only concerns would be when the fish took your hair rig, they would have to move quite a bit before the lead could dig the hook in. Maybe just use a back-weight with it?

    Thumbs up, or thumbs down?

    Yes it does work and makes for a more efficient casting set up. In my experience using a shorter hook length (max 4-6") than the one shown will improve the bite detection and hook-ups.

  4. Thanks, wont the bread/hook sink tho? or is it supposed to? how long is the distance from the float to the hook?

    I remember when I was a kid in Ukraine fishing with bread was quite poppular (dont rememebr what they used it for tho.)

    If you only lightly pinch the bread around the hook shank and leave the other 2/3 just folded over the hook point then it will float very nicely.

    If the fish are in range then you do not need a float - just the hook tied to the main line. If you need more distance then you can add a small bobber 3-4 feet up the line.

    You can also use a piece of plastic bread flake on the hook and wrap real bread around it - good if you have problems with small fish attacking the bread.

    http://www.bigcarptackle.com/store/product.php?productid=19757&cat=307&page=2

  5. I'm still learning a lot of the carp fishing terms so please bear with me...surface baits does that mean throw out some bread as chum and than cast out the baited hook? wouldn't the hook just sink? also do I put the ball of bead on the hook or use hair rig set up?

    That's exactly right - you've got it! Just wrap about 1/4 of a slice of Wonder bread around a #6 hook tied directly to the main line. Pinch the bread around the shank of the hook and with a little practice you'll be amazed at how well it will cast and stay on. No need for a hair-rig.

  6. It's more of a channal now; maybe 25m wide, but it used to be a basin leading into a larger body of water, there seem to be barrier so I think the fish are trapped in there and there are a lot of them (carp). I cant tell how deep it is in the middle (could be pretty deap). The fish I've seen before were several feet from the bank but I've seen them jumping out thruout. I've fished anywhere from 5 to 24 ft from shore. it's usually pretty murky there and where I could see the weeds are inches from the top some of them are few feet tall and I've seen carp swrimming right thru them.

    I would certainly be tempted to fish some surface baits - nothing like good old Wonder bread. It might take a little time to get them going but if you can see them then its well worth a try.

    If you can estimate the depth a bit more (even casting a lead might give you some more valuable clues as to the depth and bottom structure i.e. hard, soft etc). A knowledge of the weed type can also tell you if the bulk of the weed is floating near the surface or grouped on the bottom.

    Clearing some weed to create a swim would be next on my list after trying the surface bait.

  7. Several times including today I was fishing at a spot where that seems to be full of carp, including some rather large ones. One time when the water was clear I saw many of them swimming around including a monster about 3.5-4ft long, today it was murky but I saw about a dozen of them jump out in a couple of hours I was there. Unfortunatelly I've never caught any fish at that spot (I'm new to carp fishing and only got a few of them).

    I think what's been standing in my way are the (slimy) weeds at the bottom, they seem to be pretty tall and I figured my rig probably gets burried in them esp if I use a heavy sinker that people use with hair rigs. Whats the best way to overcome this?

    So tell us a bit more about this swim... how far out do you need to fish from the bank, how deep is the area above the weeds and when you say pretty tall weeds are you talking a few inches or several feet?

  8. the only time I think a line has a big difference is when few people fish with 3 rods, tips up and tight line, you can see seagulls and ducks freaking out of them and I'm sure fish do too

    if you fish next to them with slack lines and back leads you will catch more

    fishing solo you can usually get away with anything

    Tell that to my local ducks and the damned heron that flew into my lines not once but TWICE this morning!

    As for slack lines I think that is the one of the most misused techniques out there... it was originally developed for fishing over weed beds (some 30 years ago so nothing is new...) and has now become 'fashionable' resulting in too many carp burying themselves in snags etc because the fish can move 20 yds before the line can be fully tightened.

    What ever happened to tight line fishing in colder water to locate carp using line bites...

  9. Anyone interested in learning more about carp fishing should come along to one or both of the following seminars...

    Saturday Sept 22nd 11:30 am Carp Fishing with Iain Sorrell & Steve Clow - CT DEEP Fishing & Hunting Day at Session Woods, Burlington CT

    http://www.ct.gov/dep/cwp/view.asp?a=2723&q=462388&depNav_GID=1655

    Thursday Sept 27th 7pm An Introduction to Carp Fishing with Iain Sorrell - Connecticut Outfitters, Wethersfield CT.

    http://www.ct-outfitters.com/

    If you live in neighboring states you are also very welcome!

  10. After a prolonged wait the much anticipated Delkim Smart Clips have been officially launched!

    post-479-0-94861600-1347562761.jpg

    Simply attach the Smart Clip to your rod and clip in the line to create the perfect "V" to support your hanger, bobbin or other line indicator. No matter what the rod angle the indicator will positioned to give the maximum sensitivity and bite or drop back detection. Smart Clips are tangle free and can stay in position while casting.

    • Allows perfect adjustment of the line angle for maximum sensitivity and bite detection
    • Smooth strike release - no risk of line catching
    • Mounts quickly and easily to almost all rod diameters with a flexible band
    • Stays on the rod when casting
    • Allows micro adjustment to increase or decrease the effective bobbin weight
    • Works the ALL makes of bite alarm, hanger, bobbin etc - NOT just Delkim!

    Available from your favorite North American Delkim outlet.

    Retail: US$ 22.50 for a pack of 3 Smart Clips inc 3 'O'-rings

    Special Introductory Offer: Save over 10% if you order before Sept 30th for only $19.99

    post-479-0-43375900-1347562760.jpg post-479-0-08784100-1347562763.jpg

    post-479-0-62622000-1347562764_thumb.jpg

  11. Hey Gilbert , you say your rods are built on GLoomis (spelled correctly) blanks huh , well to a hard core multi-species St. Croix fan , buying a GLoomis rod would be against all that is right in the world. I say if your going to buy the best AMERICAN rod, St. Croix is the best there is. I have handled many GLoomis rods and found them to be highly over priced and did not care for the actions...they were no were as crisp as a St.Croix of the same length , action, etc.

    Perhaps that's why Gary is designing rods for Temple Fork Outfitters... he sold the G. Loomis business back in 1997.

  12. Well first off I was/am a BIG fan of cork handles before "euro' style carp rods, I wouldnt be caught dead with a cheap EVA handled rod for the other species I chase. Getting cork handled proper carp rods has been super tough in the States and for many years not many carp rod makers even sold a model with cork, its been EVA , Japanese shrink tube in either full length or abbreviated as the standard. So with the full cork handles I would give them a 9 out of 10.... the only way these rods could be a perfect 10 in looks is if they would have made them abbreviated cork handles (like the St. Croix Mojo and other models). But I like the full cork better than the standard euro carp handles.

    Action - they are a Mod./Fast action and of course are not TEST CURVE rated like UK carp rods, I have heard others say they are like a 3.50TC , but that must be because they are rated up to 4 oz. , but I personally would say they have a softer tip than my UK 3.50TC rods and would put them in the 3 - 3.25TC range. Dont get me wrong , I love the action of these rods and would not want them like some of my fast action distance carp rods that tend to be very stiff....which you have to worry about when playing fish in close under the rod tip if you dont fish a "light" drag once you get the fish in that close because you CAN pull hooks with stiff rods. These rods threw 2 oz. method feeder packed pretty well with oats with no issues and I bet they could put them out there as far as I needed if the fish would have been showing far out. I really liked the action and the FEEL of these rods the more I cast them...you can certainly tell they put a lot of thought into these rods and you can tell they are a St. Croix rod by the feel. Certainly NOT like my St. Croix surf rods be any means..but with large 50mm butt rings they sure would be great for casting 2-3 oz. spoons for stripers below some big dams...hmmm !

    Overall I really like them and even a carpin buddy of mine that I fished with yesterday commented that he didnt think he would like full cork handles on carp rods (since he's used to normal UK carp rods) but he really thought they looked awesome and said he would like a set of rods with full cork too after seeing my Avids.

    I agree that there is nothing 'wrong' with cork grips - I certainly prefer them on float rods (for comfort rather than weight) where I'm holding the rod for longer periods of time. However on a typical carp rod I think the shrink tube grips (not the cheap EVA style foam which tends to deteriorate rapidly) offers some key advantages - these include secure casting grip, allowing the blank to lock into butt grips for added security, being easier to keep clean, etc.

    On the subject of test curves its worth noting that very few modern rods truly follow the classic measurement standards for a 90 degree pull against a scale. The 3.50, 2.50 ratings etc are more a guide than an absolute designation.

    On a personal note I wish more folk would try fishing lighter 'test curve' rods in the 2.50 - 3.00 range as I truly think they would be surprised at not only how far they cast (even with heavy method balls) but how nice they are to play fish. The most popular test curve rods sold in the UK are still 2.75 and 3.00 models.

  13. I use my Delkims and they put up with almost everything. I don't like the vibration sensor, I like the magnetic rollers like in my EOS set. I also notice with the Delkims that the little compartment that holds all the sensor thingys acccumulates alot of debry. My next alarms, hopefully soon will definitly be magnetic rollers. Again just my 2c.

    A lot of debris???? That's a new one on me... how are you storing your alarm?

  14. Appreciate the compliments on Delkims.

    And for those who STILL think they don't do anything different to any other alarm or that you simply don't need them here in North America well you can continue believing or watch this...

    http://saxontackle.com/?p=1628

    More than just putting big fish on the bank they have given folks a head's up on what is happening at the 'sharp' and perhaps more importantly some invaluable feedback on when to reel in and check the hook bait to make sure it is still there.

  15. "What if?" is a question humans will ask till the end of time.

    It's like running a Kindergaten club, repeating the same #### over and over again, but, here we go.

    OK - so keep treating us like children & what more do you expect????????????????????

    NO club, group, person will ever be able to please everybody. No Arguments here - agreed!

    Choice to make it private was by the Fly fishing director. So based on the "success" of that decision we should just keep doing the same thing right?????

    As stated before by many, if FREE is your thing, then go where it's free.

    When you move one section to the Non member section, why not just move them all. I'm sure somebody will come up with a good reason for every section to be free.

    CAG do not care what the "Free" forum do or how they conduct their everyday business. - Hopefully not representative of CAG in general. If no one in CAG cares about the 'Free' section of the forum then we'll have an even greater uphill battle to persuade folk to pony up the membership.

    What every "Give it to them free just like the "other" site" keep on forgetting is that the "Free" site is a 100% for profit business. Their forum is their advertisement and the owner is in the carp tackle business. Since I & many others advertise with both CAG & USCarpPro I don't see any logic in this statement. I see benefits in supporting both and isn't it about time we put aside the rivalry that continually impedes both organisations and focus more on how to grow carp fishing in North America?

    CAG offer a "FREE" section as well, and a load of guests make use of it never have I seen anybody discriminate against any of those guests. Other than CAG apparently...

    CAG Membership is for those who wish to join and support the club and what it stands for, you want it free, go get the free.

    CAG is looking for a new president & VP, now is everybody's chance to run the club they way they see fit.

    Just keep in mind that since our forum and magazine is not a "For Profit Business" , you'll have to find another way to pay for everything. That's just the way of the media and social world nowadays.

    NOTHING in this world is really "free", you're paying one way or the other OR somebody else is paying for you ;)

    It always amazes me how many people want the "free" but when CAG ask for volunteers, nobody wants to offer their time for free. Take some time to think about that before you request free again. So going back to the original point of this thread... the reality is that the fly fishing section is now a dead duck. So something to think about and especially when it comes to folks differentiating between 'free' and the 'value' of paying for a CAG membership.

    Ya'll have a great day now !!!!!

  16. The flyfishers moved over to the 'free' UsCarpPro forum and now account for 60-80% of the total forum activity.

    Shame to see them go and I think its a B-I-G mistake not to make access more 'freely' available to them on CAG.

    It is estimated that there are 500,000 folk fly fishing for carp in North America.

    We could certainly do with their input and support if we want to further the sport of carp fishing as a whole.

    And if we are lucky a few might even pay the $25 to join CAG...

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