Savayman
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Posts posted by Savayman
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Appreciate the compliments on Delkims.
And for those who STILL think they don't do anything different to any other alarm or that you simply don't need them here in North America well you can continue believing or watch this...
http://saxontackle.com/?p=1628
More than just putting big fish on the bank they have given folks a head's up on what is happening at the 'sharp' and perhaps more importantly some invaluable feedback on when to reel in and check the hook bait to make sure it is still there.
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There is an opening for CAG President. Laying out a perspective is the first step before implimentation. Hartford CT is a nice place for a CAG President.
I think my position on the 'commercial' side would be seen as a conflict of interest...
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"What if?" is a question humans will ask till the end of time.
It's like running a Kindergaten club, repeating the same #### over and over again, but, here we go.
OK - so keep treating us like children & what more do you expect????????????????????
NO club, group, person will ever be able to please everybody. No Arguments here - agreed!
Choice to make it private was by the Fly fishing director. So based on the "success" of that decision we should just keep doing the same thing right?????
As stated before by many, if FREE is your thing, then go where it's free.
When you move one section to the Non member section, why not just move them all. I'm sure somebody will come up with a good reason for every section to be free.
CAG do not care what the "Free" forum do or how they conduct their everyday business. - Hopefully not representative of CAG in general. If no one in CAG cares about the 'Free' section of the forum then we'll have an even greater uphill battle to persuade folk to pony up the membership.
What every "Give it to them free just like the "other" site" keep on forgetting is that the "Free" site is a 100% for profit business. Their forum is their advertisement and the owner is in the carp tackle business. Since I & many others advertise with both CAG & USCarpPro I don't see any logic in this statement. I see benefits in supporting both and isn't it about time we put aside the rivalry that continually impedes both organisations and focus more on how to grow carp fishing in North America?
CAG offer a "FREE" section as well, and a load of guests make use of it never have I seen anybody discriminate against any of those guests. Other than CAG apparently...
CAG Membership is for those who wish to join and support the club and what it stands for, you want it free, go get the free.
CAG is looking for a new president & VP, now is everybody's chance to run the club they way they see fit.
Just keep in mind that since our forum and magazine is not a "For Profit Business" , you'll have to find another way to pay for everything. That's just the way of the media and social world nowadays.
NOTHING in this world is really "free", you're paying one way or the other OR somebody else is paying for you
It always amazes me how many people want the "free" but when CAG ask for volunteers, nobody wants to offer their time for free. Take some time to think about that before you request free again. So going back to the original point of this thread... the reality is that the fly fishing section is now a dead duck. So something to think about and especially when it comes to folks differentiating between 'free' and the 'value' of paying for a CAG membership.
Ya'll have a great day now !!!!!
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The flyfishers moved over to the 'free' UsCarpPro forum and now account for 60-80% of the total forum activity.
Shame to see them go and I think its a B-I-G mistake not to make access more 'freely' available to them on CAG.
It is estimated that there are 500,000 folk fly fishing for carp in North America.
We could certainly do with their input and support if we want to further the sport of carp fishing as a whole.
And if we are lucky a few might even pay the $25 to join CAG...
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The North Western Kevlite Multi Range has become the standard that other rods are judged against.
The Kevlite Multi Range was a stunning series of rods and the blank near indestructible.
One of the reasons I created the Saxon hexalite series was to reproduce as many of the Kevlite performance characteristics as possible in a reasonably priced rod (i.e. under $300).
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Couple of interesting points have surfaced over the recent posts... here is my reaction.
Rods breaking... First off stuff happens (the blank gets knocked, workmanship issues etc, etc). However the faster the rod taper the more risk of a breakage compared with a through action rod - in a fast action rod the loads can build up very quickly over a small area while in a through action rod the loads are spread over a bigger bend in the rod. That's why you should always be very careful when overloading a fast action rod with heavy casting weights and playing fish (e.g. don't keep the rod near vertical when the fish is over the net etc).
Casting heavy weights... Cheaper rods use a less dense weave with more resin which not only makes them heavier but more prone to softening with repeated casting of heavy weights. High density weaves (a bit like cotton thread count) are more expensive but use less resin and will withstand much more repeated flexing and over loading than the cheaper rod blanks.
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I know this is a little off topic but heres an example about lower test curve rods, my first ever pair of carp rods were 1-3/4 TC 11ft Jack Hiltons this was round about 1975. Whilst it sounds very low compared to todays wopper stoppers they were designed primarily to be able to freeline light baits as far as possible the top 2/3rds was pretty whipy and the bottom 1/3 was stout enough to hold it solid against a fish in snaggy water at close range. Places like Ashlea pool were where they were designed for, a small and very snaggy water, no i didn't fish there LOL. I did use them extensivly well into the 80's and i had complete confidence in them, the softer tip gave them a low TC and would cushion the lunges very well but the lower section was easy enough the equivalent in feel to a fairly standard rod of around 3LB TC and you could really hang on. O' and i should add that they are fiberglass too.
This is to give another angle on what to think about when looking at test curves, the lower number is not necessarily an indicator of a "flop pole" it also is another case of 'need to feel it before you buy it'
I also have a set of 1-3/4 11' carp rods built on Fibatube glass blanks and I can easily apply MORE pressure on a fish with them than most 3lb+ test curves carp rods. The reason being that the blank bends deep in into the butt section and not only results in far less leverage on your arms than a typical fast taper rod but allows much more shock absorption to protect against line breakage and hook pulls.
If you don't believe me then take a set of scales and test it for yourself... and while your at it also check the effect of different rod angles when playing fish. Its also a great way to 'dial=in' the drag on your reels so they all behave consistently.
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I am no expert i am just tryugn to help you out but i beleive a 2.75 Saxon would be good for float fishing but deff not method!
The 2.50 and 2.75 Saxon's can easily cast method balls... even 4 - 6oz up to 60yds.
The reality is that they won't cast quite as far as a higher test curve rod such as the 3.50
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Ian, I wasn't going to say anything but now I've changed my mind
and I do want to add this one thing though. However, I may delete it later if you feel that what I'm about to say is negative towards the saxon rods somehow (because I understand how you have a personal interest in what people say about these rods). But just for the record, I didn't say anything negative about your rods....just gave my honest opinion with my likes and dislikes (and it was a thumbs up from me ). And I believe that it was Mick and my posts that convinced Captain Carpy to get the rods.But anyways, here's what I wanted to say. In my previous post, I said I was going to strip the blank and re-ring the rods but I said it wasn't worth it. The reason is that it's a waste to re-ring the rods on the saxon blanks because these blanks aren't made for distance casting as you know. So I would probably agree with your test results showing a gain of only 3-5 yards with alternative ringing options.
However, on distance casting blanks like my His 200's, where you can apply a lot more force and hence resulting in greater velocity (via off the ground casting for example), adding an extra ring will reduce the casting distance by more than 3-5 yards. The reason is simple physics. As you know, adding an extra ring increases friciton. And I'm pretty sure that frictional force is proportional to either the square or cube of the velocity (don't feel like looking this up) but I can probably model it mathematically if I got paid for it
. So in other words, the more force one exerts, the greater the effect that the added ring will have. But one cannot add all this force (off the ground cast) to the Saxon blanks because it'll fail (rupture) so that's why I decided not to re-ring it because it's pointless on these blanks.Anyways, that's why I didn't like the ringing of the 3.5 Saxon rod but as I've stated, different ringing wouldn't have made any difference in the distance because we can't apply the force one would require in order to see effect of the added ring. There are a few other things I would change if I built the rod to my liking but I'm not going to mention those because it's irrelevant for the most part (unless people are super picky like me
).Overall, you did a great job of making a quality rod at an affordable price.
I certainly didn't think you said anything negative... well other than lopping its ball off! Ha, ha.
There is a lot of misunderstanding regarding friction and casting. Once the rod has straightened out (another subject entirely!) the line pretty much flows down the center of the rings - right?
On a fixed spool reel the line comes off in coils and the bigger the coils the more (forward toward the rod tip) air resistance and slap (friction) against the blank these coils create. So the trick is to eliminate these coils by reducing them through smaller & smaller rod rings until the line is basically a straight line. Then you have minimum friction during casting. Fuji did some experiments years ago for tournament casting and this reduction in line coil size was one of the most critical elements to achieving distance. They showed that a gradual taper in ring diameter as found in most rods is actually less effective than a couple of 'choke' rings that reduce the line coils very quickly and then a series of smaller but similar sized rings to the tip. However the rods looked pretty weird so everyone went with the current trend.
Now onto tip bounce... bigger rings weigh more than smaller rings and therefore have more momentum which means that the rod tip will take more time to settle into a straight line again. Tip bounce simply kills distance casting and going back to Fuji's experiments we would ideally have 3 or 4 small rings to minimize weight towards the tip and a couple of reducing rings to 'choke' the line coils ASAP.
Not sure I understand the point you are trying to make regarding the difference in forces applied to a Hi-S vs a Saxon during casting and why one would fail? Try picking something like a 2lb weight with the Saxon and then try (if you dare or can) with the Hi-S...
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I completely understand... i meant like 100 plus yds... nothing over 150 if up to 150 at all. I realize thats a long distance... and very hard to get to that point and accurately fish. But when im seein fish out far (100-125yds) i would love to get a hoook bait out there. I would run a 3 0z + distance lead with a very small stick mix and hopefully be able to acheive my goal EVENUTUALLY! I by know means think that im gona buy a certain rod and magically be casting 200 yds... I know its not posisble... And i just want to be able to get into the 100 yd mark and possibly little bit more with a little pracitce... Thats all i need. What is feathering when you cast?
100 - 120 yds is certainly very achievable and I think you have the right rig set-up in mind!
'Feathering the cast' is when you use your finger tip to slow the line coming off the spool toward the end of the cast. This can be done to prevent casting too far, reducing the impact of the lead & bait hitting the water and if using a lead clip to ensure lead does not come free when the lead hits the water.
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Just to answer some of the questions posted on ring sizes and positions with the Saxon rods...
When we tested prototype rods (which used the same blanks as current production models) we tried a variety of ring sizes (including 50mm butt and larger tip ring) together with 5 vs the current 6 ring + tip options.
After lots & lots of casting the difference in overall distance achieved with all the different permutations (reels, ring size, number, leads vs method etc etc) was no more than 3 - 5 yards.
If you really want to make a difference in casting distance on ANY rod go with a shock leader and lighter mainline 8-10lb max!
The key decision for ring size and position came down to rod action when playing fish (which we deemed as critical for the especially hard fighting North American and wilder fish in certain European waters) and more importantly reducing line friction over the rings when the rod is bent over so that it minimizes any risk of hook pulls.
As for casting distance then there are plenty of super stiff casting 'sticks' that claim all sorts of distances. In reality very few folk can achieve the distances claimed (especially over 150 yds) and anything under $500 - $600 is probably a waste of money. There is then the whole issue of accurately baiting up and hitting the target with hook baits...
The Saxon blanks are a 1K weave which is much, much stronger and more durable than cheaper 3K blanks. They were chosen for their ability to play lots and lots of fish over the years and repeatedly cast heavy method balls if necessary without the blank softening. As for casting distance then short to medium is where they really excel but they were never intended for extreme ranges. That said we have several top Euro anglers fishing at extreme ranges including 250 yds + with the Saxon rods... rowing the baits out or using a bait boat to ensure accuracy!
If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to answer them.
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A somewhat younger Lenny fishing Savay in 1981... (taken by Mike Wilson)
Lenny kindly showed us the hair rig in early 1980 and it proved devastating from the outset!
And some much earlier hair rigs...
1930's big game rig
Sturgeon 'pop-up' rigs from the 1800's
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A lot of guys in the UK use maggots in their chum mix for carp - works a treat. The trick is to freeze them first so they 'die' and don't burrow into the bottom. You can them fish live ones on the hook or a maggot clip or almost any regular carp bait or boilie.
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You even made the International Carper section of the July 2012 Carpworld magazine - Well done again!
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"Two things anyone can use - Effort, Energy & Eyes..." Ha, ha Good old Nashy!
Just wish he had a more interesting voice... half the audience were nodding off.
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Thank-you Mike!
I still have the signed copy from all those years ago fishing in Chicago.
Its about time you came out to CT and fished with Nigel and myself!
Cheers, Iain
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Rob Maylin was just over from the UK as a guest of Ontario Tourism to help promote the carp fishing...
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Same here... seems fine now.
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If you are dropping leads on casting then make sure you 'feather' the cast as its about to hit the water. That way the lead will stay forward on the bend of the clip rather than push the rubber off when it hits the water.
That said I only use safety clips or drop the lead when fishing dense weeds, snags or when I want to get the fish up on the surface ASAP to avoid zebras etc. All my rigs are designed to 'lose' the lead if I break the line.
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Thanks Willem... I know the DEEP in CT have been fascinated by the number of folk following the new CT carp record story on facebook.
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Please take a moment to look and "like" the new CT Fish & Wildlife facebook page... www.facebook.com/CTFishandWildlife.
Check out the story on the new CT Carp record and commend CT Fisheries for their forward thinking that made documenting the record and the safe release possible.
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yes I am using two northwestern kevlite rod for most of my fishing and I agree they are of better quality. But I still think for the price the black widows cant be beat if they last. A few years you got your monies worth
Certainly explains it! Those kevlite blanks would equate to a $400 - $600 rod today...
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Disagree all you want, the Black Widows (AKA Mad Dragon) are very soft action (and cheap blank) rods and YES it takes a certain "technique" to casting such soft rods (I also own 2.25 and 2.50TC rods). I much prefer fast action rods and they also must have a certain casting technique to cast method feeders 100+ yards that those soft rods will never reach no mater how you cast them..lol. Those soft action carp rods are made to fish close range with lighter weights, they are by no means casting machines.
Just like the old Cabelas Predator 2.25TC rods that many guys on here used for years, I personally would never cast a 2 oz. method feeder (possibly 6-8 oz. when packed depending on your method mix) on any cheaply made low Test Curve rated rod, but again I have only been in the carpin game 10+ years, so what do I know ?
Alex your are absolutely correct... The only way to make low price rods is to minimize on the carbon weave and fill in the gaps with more resin - its (well almost) as simple as that!
There are NO rods selling for under $150 (and more in some cases) that have blanks capable of sustained and repeated casting (or playing of lots of fish) of such heavy weights. If they don't break then the blank will soften up within a couple of seasons.
In most cases carp rods in the USA see 10 years of 'UK' type carp action in only one or two seasons.
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well I can assure you I can cast 100 yards with my 2.5 tc rods using a method ball.
I do not own a Black Dragon rod but I have cast one a few times and we have several members on here that are using this rod with out any issues
$300 per rod is not an option for some and many do not see that as a bargain.
A method ball weighing how much????
Bite Alarms
in Ontario
Posted
A lot of debris???? That's a new one on me... how are you storing your alarm?