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classiccat

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Posts posted by classiccat

  1. I got a wife that will never let me fish. Maybe someday there will be a pin for that!

    Us married guys deserve our own forum section :lol:

    for example, it's understood that a long session is 8hrs. :D

  2. Regardless of which brand of bait Ivelin / Sean used, he posted an excellent report with some impressive captures! Well Done Guys!

    cny88...If I were you, I would resume your baiting campaign asap! Clearly these fish are on like donkey kong baby! Wooo!

    Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with any commercial bait company :lol:

  3. Spot on , I just spent the past 45 minutes trying to dig up an old thread on bricking by Mario Kok , Maybe he will chime in . I know he uses a technique called "bricking" which is where you make 1 to 2lbs bricks wrap them up in foil or saran wrap and boil for an hour instead of 2 mins (to make up for size ) then get an electric carving knife and get hacking . cut into cubes your desired size . I wish I could find the link (believe me I tried) but maybe if you contact Mario he could elaborate .

    I'm surprised that you haven't committed this entire thread to memory Ken! :lol:

    Boosting Confidence with Boilies; See Post #3

  4. the reason I ask is cost.

    an 18mm boilie uses over 2x the amount of raw materials than a 14mm bait. A 24mm boilie uses over 5x the amount as a 14mm bait. (Volume = 4/3 x pi x radius^3)

    if you're planning a baiting campaign, a 14mm is going to get more mileage and I believe will hold fish in your swim longer as they root-around for more baits.

    I have a large 14mm table for rolling chum baits and the small "longbase" tables in various sizes for rolling hookbaits.

  5. count me out then, no one I mean NO ONE would do that even if I paid them. They will either be too tired to be up and fishing at midnight or they will be so drunk they will fall out of my boat.

    you don't have to start at midnight to participate. last season, we started just before daybreak.

  6. another thing that you must consider is the air temperature inside of the container when you stick it into the fridge/freezer.

    this warmer air contains moisture and when the walls of the container cool, moisture inside of the container will condense onto the container walls leading to mold.

    when you stick your baits into a fridge or freezer, open the container to allow the bait to acclimate. Reseal the container without taking it out of the fridge/freezer.

  7. Classiccat, thanks for the info. A carp rod isn't in the budget as yet. :sorry: I'm accumulating some cash for birthday and Christmas. I build custom rods and a company has added a series of carp rods to their extensive inventory. I'm stuck with what I have right now. Bolt rig- please clarify. Remember, I'm new and having to learn new terminology for carpin'. Again, thanks. :Banana:

    A "bolt rig" is one of the most widely used rigs in carp fishing. It's a hair rig however the lead is semi-fixed. Most common way to achieve this is by pulling a size-8 swivel into a lead-clip (no bead).

    It gets its name from the fact that when the fish sucks-in the hookbait, it feels the lead & "bolts"...sinking the hook home resulting in a screaming run.

    For this to be effective, 3oz of lead or more is recommended. For it to be safe, be sure to use lead-clips so that if the fish does break your line, it's not toting-around a sinker until the hook rusts out.

    When water gets very cold, bolt rigs may not be as effective; you may be getting light bites and you're never detecting them due to the fixed-lead. A running rig may be better suited for light-bites however you'll likely have to strike. The rig that hammercarp illustrated above is a running rig used for fishing puff/pack (aka Southern PayLake; SPL). you could substitute the double-mono hooklink with a hair-rig hooklink if that's your thing.

    a "carp" rod isn't a requirement, what i'm suggesting is to avoiding a rod that has a fast action. That Ted Williams rod sounds like fiberglass so you should be all-set as long as you don't have too cast far.

  8. Great / timely question! Most guys hang-it up once water temps dip into the 40's so information on this is scarce. (Iain (Savayman) has some great cold water write-ups!)

    In cold water, location is critical; choose your swim carefully. Regardless of how good your bait is, it will likely not pull fish to your swim. If you do bait, do so in moderation...less-is-more. Without access to warm-water discharges (WWD's) or known wintering areas, I target ponds. Tidal flows extend the season a bit however I've had a difficult time locating fish in sub-38 degree water.

    For tackle/rigging, Think "sensitive". If you're using a bolt rig, the hook-link lengths are generally kept very short. Because they're not feeding aggressively, my experience has been that fish aren't hooked as deep therefore are more prone to hook pulls. So i recommend light monofilament and a light TC rod. When not using a steelhead rod / float, I'll be using 11' 2 1/4 rods with 8# line for ledgering; i can get away with it in large part due to the venues that I've chosen.

  9. LOL i nearly choked on my dinner!!!

    Never ceases to amaze me that they will spends tons of money/manpower to remove a problem that isn't a real problem. I read that after they done that the lake has to be left for 4 years before restocking, then youll have to wait for them to grow. If this is the case anyone that normally fishes there must really hate carp to have their lake unfishable for that amount of time.

    they appear to be taking measures to reduce runoff...so they're not oblivious. And if I understand the situation correctly, the plan that is in progress included collecting desireable species and storing them in a holding pond...then restocking these adult fish next spring in addition to fresh stocks from hatcheries; apparently the winter season is all that's required for the water to detoxify.

    It would be interesting to see if David's observation from previous "clensings" materializes!

  10. Iowa DNR will be performing a restoration process (link)on Black Hawk Lake which involves wiping out the entire lake:

    "Wallace is coordinating fisheries crews from across the state that will be crisscrossing the lake on preplanned routs applying the fish toxicant, rotenone, to eliminate all fish remaining in Black Hawk Lake. "

    If water quality is the real concern, should they be considering the fact that the lake appears to be completely surrounded by farmland which may lead to eutrophication (link)?

    post-3938-0-88272800-1352313925_thumb.jp

    Wouldn't you think that eutrophication combined with record drought (an excessive biomass probably doesn't help) are likely root cause?

    Iowa's DNR may be in for a rude awakening when their water quality woes remain even after replacing the "rough-fish" with "fine-fish" :sleep: .

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