philaroman
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Posts posted by philaroman
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I have a few $500+ custom rods and I dont think I will have one for this way of baiting. If I see a reason I would need a custom groundbait rod I may consider it.
ill play with some cheaper models for the meantime
OK, you want cheap -- you got it:
http://www.basspro.com/Offshore-Angler-Power-Plus-Rods-Spinning-Rods/product/30663/#desc-tab
got the 12-footer, years ago & gave it away, 'cause it was too lo-tech. the glass blank was very durable & reasonably soft-tipped, though. they seem to have significantly improved the guides & introduced a 15-footer... and you can't beat the price!!!
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"something [you] can punish and not worry about damaging the rod"
http://www.lamiglas.com/?page_id=415
PERFECT SOLUTION (if you can afford it): get the Lami Surf glass blank (11'6"-13'8" 1-pc
) & have it made into EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT -- better components & lighter than Berkley... you can even trim a few feet off the butt & add a graphite butt section for monster length & reduced weight. -
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a while back, I grabbed a cheap 13' carp rod on eBay that's really goofy, but I like the moderate blank & guide quality (for the price). They make affordable surf rods up to 23', that are probably same blank material & slower taper than you'd expect for a Surf rod:
http://www.squidjig.com/fishinggear/carbon%20surf%20rod.htm
...give 'em a call -- they chat
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well, I wouldn't go that far. you can get quality/durability of Old, PLUS the advantage of modern materials & improved manufacturing techniques -- you just have to pay an arm, a leg, and both nuts, LOL... anyone willing to go that route for a fishing reel, ain't lookin' for a spincaster, so they simply aren't made
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there are spinnig reels w/ casting triggers (better/older Shimano QuickFire models, Quantum Hypercast, etc.) that your buddy can use like an underspin & never touch that dreaded, scary bail. I don't think they're available much bigger than Shimano 4000-size, which is kinda' small for carp, but at least you get decent line management & proper drag from a six-washer stack. Plus, there's the option of having multiple spools w/ different line for different situations.
There is NO WAY to get that from ANY spincaster; the reputation of US-made 50-y-o Zebco's has no relevance to the disposable Chinese crap you can buy at WalMart, today; and there's NO SUCH THING, as a modern carp-appropriate reel w/ MSRP under $30!!!
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needmotime2fish,
Theres no BPS, but there is a Cabela's. It's not real close, but I do go there occasionally. I suspect they have something similar. I try to bundle my purchases if buying online to help offset the shipping consideration.
Cabela's own Live Bait Hooks (Premium Black/Red - not, Reg./Bronze) were surprisingly good -- on Clearance ($1.88 for 25) they were a downright STEAL!!! ...I was actually amazed -- Japan-made, high-carbon, chemically sharpened Octopus w/ heavier wire gauge than Gammy. They're discontinued, but your store may still have some at reduced price -- call & ask.
Obviously, they're not 80-cent carp-specific hooks, but the #2's may well be strong enough to horse a big girl out of cover. Smaller sizes are probably best for lighter applications, but still stronger than Gammy Walleye.
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if you're not fishing too far out, try a Paternoster (sp?) float rig -- that way, everything except your lead stays well off the bottom... actually, if you use the float merely to "dog-leg" your line -- not, as an indicator -- you can fish pretty far out & the float can be completely submerged
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Fish at first light before it gets hot, the last couple of hours of light (dusk) or nights. I fish more nights in the summer and generally arrive a few hour before dark and fish through to 9am or so and then get out before the sun arrives!!
that's the best general advice, right there: by 10AM, you should be crankin' your A/C -- not, your reels!!!
find a waterfront bar; feed the carp at dusk; feed yourself & close the bar; be fully set up & well into fishing by 4AM; drive home sober after 9AM... it works on so many levels, LOL
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well, what's the rest of your gear like; how big are the carp you target; & what do you mean by "walleye hook"?
1) if "walleye hook" means light-wire, you should DEFINITELY BEEF UP!!!
2) for bigger fish & carp-specific tackle (i.e., reels that can generate drag pressure WELL over 15 lbs.; rods that can handle that much resistance; 15-20# mono or 40-60# braid; etc.), #6 - #10 size hooks damn well better be carp-worthy... it's not a luxury -- it's a NECESSITY!!!
3) for small-medium carp on bass/walleye/steelhead tackle w/ 8-12# mono, 50-cent #4 hooks are an unnecessary expense -- they can actually be a disadvantage, if the price makes you sqeeze a few extra casts out of a hook that should've been replaced. You can find premium Japanese high-carbon steel on eBay for 10-20 cents/hook -- save your money & replace hooks more often!!!
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IMO, ALL spincast/underspin reels are CRAP for CARP -- small line capacities; puny, choppy drags; & line going over skinny little pick-up pins at a sharp angle, is just a bad idea for big, powerful fish
if you absolutely MUST have a stationary spool & a casting trigger, there are exactly TWO old, discontinued models that are even borderline carp-worthy (both are open-face spinning reels, but if the trigger mechanism is in good working order, you can cast one-handed & never touch the bail):
original Baitrunner 300 -- RARE; kinda' small for 15# mono & no good for braid; drag should be upgraded, but that puts you in the $100 ballpark for just the reel
older Quantum Hypercast -- the biggest size is too small for 15# mono, but it's beefy enough to handle 30-40# braid which should give you adequate line capacity... However, IT'S NOT A BAITRUNNER!!!
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hmmm... you may be in Luck -- now what you're describing may be a problem common to braid improperly attached to the spool, creating what seems like a weird false drag failure while there is nothing wrong with the reel (very common, easily fixed)
by any chance, are you spooled up with a slick, non-stretch line (PE braid/fuse/NanoFil/etc.) & is it tied directly to the spool withoutout any kind of backing or tape??? if so, THAT's your problem & there are no mechanical issues involved
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to be honest, the problems you're describing sound nore serious than anything related to the audible drag spring... a 90-size Okuma is HUGE!!! it's meant for bigger things than carp & should easily handle a 30-pounder EVEN WITH minor scrapes & rubs from non-standard replacement frill parts
you're talking about the spring+pawl on the underside of the spool, right? that's just a noise maker for when the drag is engaged & should have no effect on mechanical operation... UNLESS, the replacement spring is WAY too big in diameter & it rubs/catches the rotor when the spool oscillates to its lowest position.
remove the spring+pawl completely, for a test-run. these parts are nonessential & the reel should operate fine without them (you just have to know by sight/feel when fish is taking line). if the pawl is riveted down & can't be removed, tape it down in a position where it doesn't engage the toothed washer on the spool shaft, at all
If a "stripped-down" spool makes the reel work (aside from silent drag), then you just need a skinnier spring.
If you still have problems reeling under load, then the spring for a clicky drag is the least of your concerns... you mighta' eBought someone else's headaches 
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never had one, but I researched portables for a while before I gave up on the idea... folding PortaBotes seemed to make more sense than inflatables
http://www.porta-bote.com/dimension.php
they're a bit more expensive but much more durable, so a used one seems safer than a new inflatable... check Craigs & local classifieds
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how big are the Fallfish in your river? in one of my local streams, they're mostly 6-8" & dense doughbait works OK. I hand-mold golfball size spheres to feed.& keep my hookbait in the 25-30mm ballpark (#4 hook, or even #2 short-shank) no corn; no maize; no particles -- nothing small enough for fallfish to swallow easily!!! if I'm lucky, they pester my bait for a while & give up withot stealing it -- if they're particularly hungry/numerous, they still rob me but it takes 10-20 min. occasionally, a 10-14" fallfish will swallow the bait & get hooked, but that's rare -- less frequent than carp ...nothing huge -- just strong, healthy fish up to mid-teens -- very enjoyable w/ lighter tackle.
another thing that has worked in that stream is fishing after a rain, when the water looks like chocolate milk. I fish the back-current along the banks (freeline or small sliding sinker), while the middle of the stream is an unfishable brown torrent rushing by in the opposite direction... the fallfish are much less active, but the carp don't seem to be bothered.
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plus, those late fall to early spring photos (minimal vegetation) really help to investigate bank space, footpaths & parking options
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Google earth is a fisherman's best friend! I use it all the time to find potential spots then I scout them out by foot.
try both, Google & BingMaps -- you can get satelite photos from slightly different angles or different times & it really helps to put things in perspective
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definitely worth investigating, BUT:
1) make sure you have a good idea how the smaller, more submerged dock remnants look during high tide -- you don't want to be marooned on a slippery rock, holding all your tackle w/ one hand & clinging to a little tree w/ the other, while singin' a Jonny Cash song...
How high's the water, mama?
Five feet high and risin'
How high's the water, papa?
Five feet high and risin'2) the ends of the longer docks may get crowded March-May, during the Herring/Shad/Striper Run -- you don't want to end up w/ guys constantly casting/retreiving on either side of you.
3) figure out the Catfish situation -- that's some mighty good lookin' kitty water, as well.: may hold small Channels/Whites/Bullheads that wolf down your baits before a Carp ever sees them; may have big Flatheads holed up there in the daytime, scaring off all but the biggest Carp... depending on how exclusive you are in what you target, that area could be anything from an excellent multi-species opportunity, to a bloody nuisance.
If I were to fish there Springtime, I'd bring 2 carp rods, 1 9-10' heavier glass rod & 1 UL for bait. That way, I could switch to Stripers/Flatties rather than move around, if carp did not cooperate (and even if they did, I'd still dangle a white perch next to some rockpiles) ...could be a really fun day, esp. now that PA lets us use 3 rods.
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I'm so sorry about your disappointment and apologize for any inconvenience it may have caused, but, that's thats exactly what this section if for. Beginners to as questions. I've not seen one beginner NOT being helped or answered.
Disappointment would be if the complete forum is closed to the public.
I'm also working on a complete new section for the website addressing beginner carping and all that goes with it, including a bait section.
I'll announce when it goes live ( time is tight) and hope it won't be a disappointment.
Sincerely
Willem
I'm with lonewolf, on this one... EXTREMELY DISAPPOINTED!!! I can't imagine why you would alienate non-paying members such as lonewolf & myself, unless you're looking to increase revenue, first & foremost & your lofty mission statements (to the right of the logo, at the top of every screen) are secondary by far.
If I chased specimen w/ Euro-tackle & competed, I'd pay up in a heartbeat. However, my main interest was the Float/Match Section which was comparatively scant & I'm further pigeonholed by having no interest in loaded poles. The vast variety of other informatin on CAG is of minor interest to me, so I have no intention of paying for a membership. I'm just looking for a few interesting tidbits & that's all I'm willing to offer in return, along with minimal attention to the sponsor ads & my +1 to Total Membership that CAG presents to prospective sponsors.
IMHO, it's ludicrous to ask most questions in the Public/Beginner section, when the answers are readily available (correction: WERE available, prior to 2012) in volumes of archived posts, via the Search Engine. Regardless of how friendly & helpful CAG members are, I'm sure that many are not likely to discuss the same things over & over, year after year, with equal thoroughness & attention to detail. Furthermore, anything in the Public section can't be properly categorized by specific subject matter & slowly creating watered-down, redundant versions of the "private" sub-sections in the Public area is just assinine... this makes your Search Engine less efficient for everyone!!!
Finally, allowing virtually anyone to sell on CAG by purchasing a 1-month trial membership is ATTROCIOUS!!! You are exposing your members to possible scams & rip-offs for a measly five bucks!
Quite simply, as of 2012, the forum just ain't what it used to be! If your push for Member Fees was necessary for the site to stay afloat -- JUST SAY SO & please skip the evasive, corporate-like PR... i.e., don't tell a restricted member whose sincere disappointment mirrors my own how nice New CAG is, when it's blatantly & grossly inferior to CAG-as-it-used-to-be.
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hey, show some respect... Willie used to open for her (or was it the other way around?)
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get an LED headlamp w/ optional RED light -- a built-in, dedicated, separate red LED is more convenient; a removable red filter over entire lamp is better for power (until you loose it, LOL):
- doesn't penetrate water more than a few feet, so it doesn't spook fish
- doesn't attract insects
- doesn't disrupt night-vision
BLUE also works to keep bugs away & it's actually better for well-defined contours under weak light, but it penetrates the water column much more than red & I'm not sure it's as good as red for preventing night-blindness
- doesn't penetrate water more than a few feet, so it doesn't spook fish
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starting this year, PA has a Spring-time closed season for Bass on huge chunks of the Susquahanna R. Basin. you may be able to find several campgrounds w/ elbow room, that would otherwise be crowded
if you want some serious seclusion, many National & State Forests allow primitive camping (1 night per spot), but if you keep it low impact you can stretch it out to several days while retaining the "primitive spirit". the idea is not to create an established site -- no fires; no cutting; no digging (except to bury your poop) & keep moving your tent/bivy not to kill the grass under it.
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research your local terminology -- sometimes they're called "spikes" & God knows whatr else... some shops don't care to display the "LIVE MAGGOTS" sign.
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How might dead/iced down fish prove to be a problem? Did I miss something?
1) Banded Killifish (a hardy baitfish) is frequently kept on ice for hours, so that smaller containers w/ no aerators can be used... you put a stiff, dead-looking, fishcicle on your hook & after a minute in the water it's live bait w/ almost 100% revival rate
2) Northern Snakeheads (another "gift" from Asia) & eels can remain on land for extended periods (days?), as long as there's a little dew, or drizzle to keep their skin from drying out
3) as I recall, flash-freezing was discovered by Mr. Birdseye when he saw that fish caught in ridiculously cold weather froze almost instantly & some revived when thawed in water, shortly thereafter
tench
in Other Species Stories
Posted
here's all the US Tench that is & ever was:
http://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/FactSheet.aspx?SpeciesID=652