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NJ - Ryan Munn

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Posts posted by NJ - Ryan Munn

  1. 1 hour ago, MoCarp said:

    yes! but with the current you can't chum just anything to hold in A-B areas as you notice.....I would say C is an eddy area where chum/food does accumulate , feeder boilees, cut in half, don't roll as easy..dence base mix, say 50/50 semolina-masa corn flower, a Capsicum based attracters (peppers) like chili powder and black pepper 

    I'd make up a buttload of feeder baits, you could roll them out in sausages, and flatten them a bit then cut them in 1/2 inch sections, be less likely to roll around as much since you don't roll them just enriched flour will work..no oil ether..less to make them float!

    per large egg....40g masa flour.... 40g enriched wheat flour.....14g powderd milk..... 1.5 g black pepper..... 1.5 g chili powder....1.5g MSG......1.5g salt......500mg l-lysine (one pill crushed... 1ml of Tai Fish sauce 

    This is a VERY cheap effective feeder boilee you can make several pounds!... to make hook baits add 1ml sesame seed oil to help roll, change out the plain flour for semolina...35g/35g masa/semo....add 10g hemp flour to the base mix (you can grind your own in a spice grinder)

    I like to take some hemp seed and flash roast them in a wok, then grind them in my spice grinder....

    you can make 10# or so feeder "boilees" pretty quick that way...

    do you have issues with crabs there?

    I never have any crab problems, but maybe it's just because my favorite hookbait is the Korda Fake Food plastic corn... the crabs probably are avoiding it; it is plastic, after all..

    I would try your boilie recipe, but in my year of fishing this spot I have never had a single take when fishing a boilie, even after introducing the fish to them for several weeks. They seem to prefer corn a lot more.. even the fish on my profile picture (my PB) was caught at location c on fake corn.

    I've made an updated chumming plan based on your suggestion, tell me what you think:

    I plan to chum over a 4 day period, once a day at 5:00 PM. I will leave a maize trail from spot a to c, and put a mixed particle of corn, oats, peanuts and chickpeas at spot c. Schedule below:

    Day 1: 6 cups maize trail, 5 gallons mixed particle

    Day 2: 6 cups maize trail, 5 gallons mixed particle

    Day 3: 3 cups maize trail, 3 gallons mixed particle

    Day 4: 3 cups maize trail, 3 gallons mixed particle

    Day 5&6: Fish! ;)

    Thoughts?

  2. The water I'm fishing is tidal, so the flow and direction of the current will change by the hour. Regardless of tides, there is a strong current entering the "b" Channel from the main river, pushing all bait from spot a, through spot b and into the C cove. Basically, all chum I put at b ends up at c, which is a completely slack eddy perfect for holding bait. Do you think carp would add this spot to their daily patrol routes if I chum enough?

  3. 4 hours ago, MoCarp said:

    Fish where the bottom is best, chum the jeezus out of it but put a "bread trail" to it from the main channel with boiled maze....and the main area make the chum area more diverse beans, corn, peanuts.. boiled corn chops (makes a blob of corn goo that makes great method balls), whole oats (groats) boiled rice...chick peas, hemp..always hemp....a hand full or too of feeder boilees...should have at least a 5 gal bucket of mixed particles....and 5 of boiled whole maze...and one of corn chops goo balls (mix in rolled oats to make the balls)

    the current should cause the bay water to swirl, toss in some corn cobs "dry" in the bay they will end up where the current takes food and carp will always be there...

    as a note thats how they used to find drowning victim back in the day

    Where should I make the trail, at spot A? Or maybe from a-c and make them hold at c with a more diverse particle?

    And when you say chum where the current takes it- that is between b and c. The current completely stops at the point and all food going down the b channel ends up there. Should I leave a trail from the main channel to inbetween b and c?

  4. Hello fellow carpers! I've been extremely exited for a session I'll be doing next weekend, but just a bit curious as to where I should go. The place I normally fish has access to the main portion of the delaware river, with a bay/cove and a small "creek" connecting the two. The first image I attached has a satellite view of the location, and the 3 spots I'm thinking about fishing. I normally fish in the spot marked "C" in the back cove, because it has almost no current, and a drop off down to about 10 feet off the point. My only concern is that there will be less fish in the cove, because they would have to swim out of their way and all the way back into the bay from the main river, and less fish would end up there. They would have to "exit" the highway that is the flow of the main river. Spot "B" is OK, but an incredible amount of snags and current make it virtually unfishable. Spot "A" has a mild current, and otherwise is OK except that is completely lacking any features whatsoever - it's just a flat sand bed about 5' deep. Any thoughts?

    Riverwinds_ABC.png

  5. There are some definite steps to improve your hookup ratio, but it depends on where you're fishing. For example, what's the average size of the carp in your swim? If it's around 8-10 pounds a size 6 or 4 hook should work fine. If the fish are larger and average 20+ pounds, a size 2 or even a size 1 hook can work. Remember that a 20lb Carp has a mouth about 3" wide, so a 2" hook should fit fine in there. Carp hooks are made so small because most of the market is in Europe, where the fish are most pressured and smaller hooks are required to land them.

    While on the topic of pressured fish, if you are fishing a smaller lake or anywhere the fish are likely to have been caught more than once, shorten your hair and hook length. The fish could cautiously be slurping the bait, and any hair longer than 1/2" could miss the hookset, and they are likely moving slowly between baits so a short hooklength/leader will set the hook sooner, reducing the odds of an ejection.

    on the other hand, if you're fishing a large river with a nonstop swarm of hungry, voracious carp (Delaware, Raritan, Potomac) you want the opposite: long hairs and long hook lengths. In these rivers the average size is often well over 20lbs, and as I previously mentioned most fish have a mouth over 4" wide, so a 2" hair     is not going to miss the hookup. Also, because the fish are so unpressurized you can use a longer hooklength, because the fish are likely moving quickly between baits and feeding areas so competition is reduced.

    Finally, one tip I can make reguardless of where you're fishing is to use a blowback rig. A small ring is placed along the shank of the hook, and tied to the hair.When a fish attempts to eject the bait, the ring slides up the hook forcing the fish to blow the bait out slightly further to eject it. It might also be in your best interest to add a rig kicker to your hook. It pivots the hook angle about 15 degrees, so that you get the benefits of a circle hook on an extremely sturdy, j carp hook.

    hope this helped, and good luck!

    Lizardman529

  6. On 9/1/2017 at 1:22 PM, Savayman said:

    No - its a braid to mono knot.

    Still don't understand why you need 80lb for a shock leader with 5oz leads... unless you are fishing over zebra mussels?

    I don't need one really, I just remembered hearing somewhere that 1oz = 10lb line, etc. I'm going to stick to just my 30lb braid mainline and see how that goes.

  7. Hello everyone, please excuse my many questions in this post; I've been having way to many problems with my leaders lately. Let me explain:

    Almost all of my fishing spots require a 5 ounce lead to hold current. And I don't know if this is true, but I've heard for every ounce of lead, you need 10 pounds of line pound test to not snap off on the cast. However, I am only using a 30lb braided mainline. My idea to work around this was tying about 20 feet of 80 pound braid from my rig to my mainline, using a uni knot. It hasn't been working as well as I'd thought it would.. 

    it seems that whenever I cast, the bulky line-to-line knot bumps the top eye of my rod, sometimes causing it to tangle. Just today, in fact, upon casting not just my rig but my rod tip went flying into the water, because my leader tangled around the top eye and snapped the line. Which brings me to why I'm writing this.

    Apparently, I need a leader with at least 50 pounds breaking strain, and I would prefer it to be braid, if possible. I've looked at Korda tapered leaders and such, but most are mono and do not have 50 pound test. Alternatively, is there some less bulky knot, with shorter tag ends, I could use to tie the two lines together?

    If you are still alive after reading this, thank you!

  8. Just a thought I had recently, but anyone know how well carp deal with salinity levels? Will they occasionally swim into the ocean bays from rivers? I found a few nice spots to try but they might be a little to close to the ocean, right about on the salt line. Any information is appreciated ;) 

  9. It depends on where you fish. most of my spots aren't on soft ground, or have a railing so a pod might be needed. I think its worth it, especially a pod like the Cygnet Grand Sniper. The fact that you can angle your rod tips high or low is an invaluable convenience ;) 

  10. Plastic corn is my most trusted hookbait. I've used it to great effect to catch some truly massive carp, including my 35 pound PB. Usually i will put 2 slow sinking corn and one pop up corn on the hair, so it's neutrally buoyant but still stands upright. If you're fishing a river, the current makes the corn waft around a bit and drives the fish crazy. A small split shot below the corn on the hair helps ensure it's pinned to the bottom, but still able to stand upright.

  11. Thanks for the suggestions, Phil. I did a short 4 hour session today and only got snagged once. I'm pretty sure having my Pod angled high was causing floating debris to push my mainline into snags, and lowering it fixed the problem. Despite this, over the whole 4 hours I didn't have so much as a beep. Do carp feed less in the summer months? In the spring and fall I'm getting fish every 30 minutes..

  12. Well I use a lead clip system which makes the lead pop off in a snag, and I think it's the hook getting stuck. I am trying shorter casts, and now that you bring it up the rod with the most issues was the far out one.. thanks for the advice!

  13.  This year has been my first time fishig large tidal rivers and I'm getting quite annoyed with the results. I've tried pretty much everything I know how but nothing seems to fix my problem. I'll use my latest attempt at a session as an example:

    I had found a nice swim on the Delaware river, and prebaited the spot for a week in advance. When I showed up to fish, the water looked fine. I casted out and it wasn't more than 15 minutes until all 3 of my rods were snagged. Now I don't know if it's because of the current or the spot itself...

    I'm using a Cygnet Grand Sniper rod Pod, angled as high as it will go. 3 Sonik s3 3.5 pound test curve 12' rods, with 3 Wychwood Exorcist big Pit reels spoiled with 30lb power pro braid along with  5oz Korda grippa leads. This should eliminate any current problems, yet my mainline keeps being dragged either by current or by floating debris.

    can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

    thanks!

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