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About philaroman

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    Phila., Pa.
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  1. First MN carp of 2018

    in spots like that, I take 10-15 min to gather some brush/sticks to make myself a walkway... weak, thin, dry-rotted stuff works fine to distribute your weight -- kinda' like snowshoes
  2. Mirror Carp..?

    extremely rare in Lower Delaware R. Basin (I'd guess far, far below 1%) -- aware of a few caught, but honestly don't remember seeing one, in person... smaller lakes/ponds with koi & goldfish/hybrids may improve your odds... couple hrs. drive West to Susquehanna R. Basin, would DEFINITELY improve your odds
  3. Mirror Carp..?

    location, location, location... I'm in Philly & can't remember the last mirror I saw anywhere in my area... out of many hundreds caught over many years (maybe even thousands observed/caught over decades) pretty sure that mirrors are a tiny fraction of 1% in the Lower Delaware R. Basin, unless there are isolated lakes/ponds with higher concentrations, that I don't know about
  4. Boats/Kayaks

    using boats/yaks to get to a pristine bank spot works great ...otherwise, not really that ideal as fishing platforms for carp-specific tackle/techniques/paraphernalia: can't use long rods -- even 8'-9' is cumbersome on a small boat (esp., if not alone) can't keep the "rod end" of your set-ups still basically, can't use 90% of your "carpiest toys"
  5. Poll: Where would you fish this swim?

    never know... coves like that may be a refuge from strong post-rain current, AND/OR may get "patrlloed" on a schedule & be quite productive for a couple/few daily windows... I'd start A side of B in dry weather; C side of B for high/falling water levers... ideally, feed up two close spots -- on either side of B -- where I could float-fish the snaggy channel close in, while being able to distance cast to drastically different habitat (river or cove)... better yet, go w/ a friend; do individual recon for a couple hours; then, fish together on the better "corner"
  6. Leader problems...

    if unhindered passage through the guides while casting is your goal, FG wins out -- Crazy Alberto & Albright are fine knots, but they double the mono, while the FG does not if you're bothered by the knot bumping the guides on the retrieve, Alberto/Albright might be a better choice because the mono tag end points the other way (no matter how close you clip the tag end on heavy mono, it's still a significant protrusion) if you still want to do 30-to-80 braid, get HOLLOW 80# braid & do a SPLICE -- slimmer by far & stronger than ANY braid/braid knot
  7. Dry Dog Food ?

    soak it -- should turn into fairly homogeneous mush you can use as a base for dry ingredients...
  8. Tidal River Problems..

    well, yes, if floating debris is dragging my lines -- I want line to enter the water close to the bank, out of the main current; if it's the strong current, itself, dragging my lines -- I want to minimize the amount of line below the surface... personally, I try to use as little lead as possible -- If I need more than 2-3 oz., I go somewhere else (a half pound of crap between me & the fish detracts from my enjoyment of the battle) in the Summer, I do best between dusk & 8AM (by 9AM, I want AC on my face -- not, hot wind )... in the daytime, I only do OK in those rare spots that naturally concentrate fish, regardless of feed (spillways, etc.) by giving them smaller, softer, tastier treats on smaller hooks & lighter clear leaders (yes, you get more nuisance species that way, but no action at all is a much bigger nuisance, IMHO)
  9. Tidal River Problems..

    many things you can try: fish the mouth of a sizable tributary stream -- "small water" to which big-water fish have access fish back-current, or the seam where there's circular/no current (will keep your feed mostly where you put it; also, a good tactic for fishing post-rain chocolate milk) keep more of your line above the surface, by keeping your rod tips as high & far out as possible -- VERY long front sticks w/ long(ish) back sticks would work better than a pod... set up your rods at 40-80* angle, as far out from the bank, as shallow water permits try floating or neutrally buyant bait experiment w/ different lead styles -- breakaway, surf/river disk, slinky, etc... I've even attached rocks to swivels w/ soft copper rigging wire & masking tape, LOL fish under a float EXPLORE!!! some locations may only be suitable for 1-2 hrs., to 1 of 4 tidal scenarios (high/low/in/out) -- it's nice to be mobile & have close-by spots better suited to the other tidal extremes ... and don't forget that your NJ license let's you fish the PA side of the river (albeit, not up PA tributaries)
  10. Are Rod Pods Worth it?

    well, how often do you fish close to the trunk of your car, as opposed to bushwhacking? I really wanted a nice pod, until I considered that I mostly fish "off the beaten path" -- the price of good engineering/materials is a bit prohibitive, if you can only put it to use 10X/yr.
  11. Green Lane- Deep Creek Lake Report

    oops, didn't even think of glass... and I happen to have a cheap Zebco 10' Slab Seeker (that turned out to be old-school "tobacco" glass under the ugly silver paint & cheap snake guides) & old glass Fenwick 12' noodle -- both of those are, indeed, extremely durable, forgiving, and can handle 20+ carp, while allowing full enjoyment of small fish I actually LIKE to fuss w/ the drag while playing a fish, but every standard rear-drag is choppy and imprecise, IMHO -- even the good ones like Shimano, Daiwa & venerable old Cardinals are merely less terrible. the Fightin'Drag Shimano's are the only rear-drags I really like -- there's a fine-tune Lever above the main rear dial: I find the right "ballpark" setting on the dial that's appropriate to my rod/line & use the lever for all on-the-fly adjustments in small, precise increments w/ no chance of "overexcited over-adjustment" ...also, I can find a lighter setting on the main dial, where lever at MIN is weak enough to leave the rod unattended & quickly slamming the lever to MAX is enough drag to set the hook (hence, the pseudo-Baitrunner) https://www.ebay.com/sch/Spinning-Reels/36147/i.html?LH_Complete=1&_from=R40&_nkw=Shimano+(Fighting%2C+Fightin')+-(part%2Cparts%2Cstar)&_sop=13 better hurry -- they seem to be more expensive & less abundant than 5-10 yrs. ago... might even be better off finding a modern Malaysian model, on sale
  12. Green Lane- Deep Creek Lake Report

    I use 12-16' crappie rods as a cheap alternative to float rods -- $15 is a fantastic deal & I'm sure you'll have some fun, but BEWARE! that "backbone" you describe is an ILLUSION!!! its purpose is to quickly hoist small fish out of brush piles and/or spread the lines in a multi-rod "spider" trolling system -- NOT to horse bigger fish! while the butt sections may appear fairly stiff, the blank walls are really thin to keep the rods light. furthermore, the cheapest ones use lower quality resins & weaker graphite/composite -- I've had a couple literally EXPLODE, after a couple years of repeated abuse by double-digit carp... albeit, that was w/ 10-20# braid & stronger front-drags -- w/ 8# mono & weaker rear-drags, you should be fine if you really like this type of rod (I do), keep an eye out for a half-price clearance on $60-$80 rods (that's high-end in the crappie world)... something 100% IM-6 w/ good resins & brand-name guides will lend itself much better to being taxed far beyond the rod's intended purpose & it's just more all-around enjoyable to use also, if you like Shimano rear-drags, try the higher models w/ the Fightin'Drag Lever -- they can be used as a poorman's pseudo-Baitrunner... the older Japan-made ones are the best, IMHO & you can find some very nice, reasonably priced ones on fleaBay
  13. Green Lane- Deep Creek Lake Report

    as I recall Green Lane Res. from decades ago, the carp were overpopulated, skinny, and small (most were <10 lb.; few low-mid teens; nothing bigger)... not as healthy/robust as yours from Deep Creek. if GL is still the same, you probably have a better chance at >20 lb. carp at DC, even though it's a much smaller body of water. on the other hand, GL produced great numbers. short UL rods were fun, but took too long per fish -- I found L/ML Steelhead rods to be the best choice to fully/quickly enjoy numerous smaller fish, yet easily handle the occasional mid-size
  14. Pennsylvania Roll Call!

    try the confluence of Perk. Cr. w/ Schykill R. near Oaks and explore the Schykill downstream from there, in general -- the right location should produce plenty high teens & low 20's w/ occasional bigger fish... when deeper holes that "should" hold carp, produce surprisingly few small ones, 20-40+ lb. Flathead(s) may be the reason -- try big live baitfish after dusk
  15. How to change the 1 rod rule (Minnesota)

    bring a kid/wife/date fishing