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About Ermghoti

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    Obsessed Carper
  • Birthday 12/09/1970

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  • Interests
    Fishin', shootin', guitarin' and PC gamin'.

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    under 18
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  1. Just secured my ticket, sounds like a good time! Is there a program or itinerary posted anywhere?
  2. I almost always use 50lb braid mainline, if a carp gets snagged, I let it run a bit. That almost always results in the braid sawing through whatever it's caught on. Trying the drag the carp out makes it into a big carp salad, which can quickly become completely immobile.
  3. Bigger fish outcompete for the "better" food? Small carp don't live with the ones we seek out? They don't forage the type of stuff we fish with?
  4. ...and now I'm working. :/
  5. Sturgeon are monster fighters, pound for pound, so the big ones are truly beastly.
  6. Next time I might get a line in and everything.
  7. It's... possible! I have the day off, but there are circumstances circling about, over which I am not in complete control.
  8. There are extreme versions where the lead is intended to drop off on the take, either for fish safety or snag avoidance. Since the primary environmental danger of sinkers is from ingestion, and carp leads are generally 2oz+, that's not a big concern. I've never seen the need to drop leads, my rigs perform fine using a safety clip or running weight.
  9. Well, I run 50lb braid mainline, that saves a lot of gear. If I were setting up for a season on the cheap, I'd stock up on Gamakatsu GloBug hooks in bulk, get my lead from Catfish Connection, get a few lifetimes worth of boilie stops, a pile of swivels, I find the Eagle Claw cheapies work well enough, (but better ones from Spro probably won't break the bank), then rig tubing and lead clips from a CAG supporter, those two being the only carp-specific items you'd need to get. $100-150 would last several seasons. EDIT: actually, the lead clip could be dispensed with as well, replace it with a bead bigger than the eye of the lead on each side, fix them in place with a hair elastic knotted around the mainline above the swivel. Jam it tight for fixed, or keep it a few inches up the line for semi-fixed.
  10. How many in a pack? Their globug hooks are very similar to the second pattern, a real workhorse hook, and are widely available for $7-8 for 25. EDIT: first link says ten-pack, I assume that applies to both. Still reasonable, but I'd rather buy 25-50 at once.
  11. It's going to be a mess for sure. With a pod, you can drop the butt of the rod on the fish you're not actively fighting to the ground, with the rod on the front rest, to get the tip up, then fight the other fish with the tip low. Obviously, keep the BR engaged on the second rod, and reel in as slack appears. This is one (of the few, IMO) advantages of a "quick spool" vs a true BR, as you can still take in line with the looser drag engaged. Go for he bigger first unless one is much closer than the other; the advantage of getting one quickly out of the way is worth letting the larger one run a bit. Feel free to go back and forth, you don't have to arbitrarily land the first one you decide to fight, do whatever is most advantageous at that time.
  12. You can also combine a weigh sling and a yoga mat or something to affect an unhooking mat.
  13. If I want a little more pressure, I can always palm the spool. This works better for me than fiddling with the drag. I lose fish on the retrieve infrequently enough that I'm very surprised when it happens.
  14. Add me to the "get them in promptly" club. I use about two pounds of drag, measured at the rod tip by lifting a known weight (although I've become pretty comfortable with a seat-of thepants adjustment as well). I lift and reel when the drag's quiet, let them go when it buzzes. I don't pull many hooks, and when I do, I rethink my rig.
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